Back to category Published: 14 march 2023 Author: Zhanna Mukhatzhanova

Khan Tengri Peak

Khan Tengri Peak, also known as King of the Sky, is one of the most magnificent mountains in the world. Located in the Tian Shan mountain range on the border between Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and China, it stands at 7,010 meters (22,999 feet) making it the highest point of Kazakhstan.

The mountain's name comes from the Kazakh and Kyrgyz words «khan» (king) and «tengri» (sky or heaven), symbolizing the mountain's majesty and divine status. It is considered one of the most technically challenging mountains to climb, with steep ice walls and crevasses that require advanced mountaineering skills and experience.

Khan Tengri Peak was first climbed in 1931 by a Soviet expedition led by Mikhail Pogrebetsky. Since then, it has been attempted by many experienced climbers, with varying degrees of success. Despite its technical difficulty, the peak attracts many climbers each year due to its stunning beauty and reputation as a challenging and prestigious climb.

The mountain's imposing presence is due to its unique pyramid-like shape, which is made up of four distinct faces. The north face, in particular, is renowned for its steepness and is often considered one of the most challenging climbs in the world. The west and south faces are less steep but still require a high level of technical skill to ascend. The east face is the easiest and is often used as a descent route.

How to get there?

Khan Tengri Peak is a remote and challenging mountain to access, but there are various ways to get to its base. While helicopter tours are available, they can be expensive and are not a sustainable or eco-friendly option. Instead, many climbers choose to trek to the mountain via the Bayankol Gorge, which can be accessed from the city of Almaty.

To get to the Bayankol Gorge, you can take Highway 351 from Almaty and then follow the KV-36 road for about 375 kilometers (233 mi). This journey can take around 5 hours and is best undertaken in a sturdy vehicle with a knowledgeable driver who is familiar with the area's terrain.

Once you reach the Bayankol Gorge, you will need to hike for several days to reach the base of Khan Tengri Peak. There are several campsites located near the peak, including the Khan Tengri International Mountaineering Camp. These camps offer basic accommodation and services such as food, water, and medical assistance, making them a convenient and safe option for climbers.