Tamgaly-Tas Petroglyph Site (Ili River)
Kazakhstan is home to countless canyons, gorges, and tracts, some of which are truly unique. One such place is the Tamgaly-Tas tract in the Almaty region, made special by ancient artists who adorned the rocks with images of Buddhas and Buddhist inscriptions.
Carved into the steep cliffs are depictions of Buddha Shakyamuni, Amitābha Buddha, and Avalokiteśvara. In Buddhism, Buddhas are not considered gods but rather individuals who have attained enlightenment and are revered as spiritual guides. It is believed that the essence of Buddha exists within every person, and everyone has the potential to reveal it. Mantras, such as Om Mani Padme Hum, the most significant mantra in Buddhism, accompany the images of Buddhas. The inscriptions are written in the Clear Script traditionally used by the Oirats and Kalmyks. The inscriptions date back to the late Middle Ages, specifically the 14th-16th centuries AD.
There is also a rather long inscription on the rocks expressing gratitude to the Buddhas for overcoming danger and wishing to find peace in this land. According to one version, the engravings were left by the Volga Kalmyks who migrated from the Russian Empire to the Dzungar Khanate. Along the way, they faced many hardships, including raids by warlike tribes, hunger, and thirst. Upon reaching the Tamgaly tract, the Kalmyks encountered Chinese border patrols and were compelled to swear allegiance to China. In their inscriptions, the Kalmyks sought the guidance of their spiritual leaders and hoped for a fresh start in their new homeland.
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In addition to Buddhist drawings, the stones also feature ancient Turkic runic writings, presumably left by the Kipchaks. These inscriptions are older than the Buddhist ones, dating back to about the 8th-9th centuries AD.
It's important not to confuse the Tamgaly-Tas petroglyph site with the Tanbaly petroglyph site. The latter is also located in the Almaty region, about 170 km (105 mi) northwest of Almaty. The Tanbaly tract is sometimes called Tamgaly or Tamgaly-Tas, leading to occasional confusion.
How to get there?
The Tamgaly-Tas tract is located on the bank of the Ili River, 120 km (75 mi) north of Almaty. To reach it, leave the city along the Kapchagay highway and head towards the town of Konayev. After passing Konayev, you will cross a bridge over the Ili River. Shortly after, you will encounter a complex junction where you need to turn left towards the village of Bakanas. After approximately 15 km (9 mi), you will see the Kerbulak store on the right side of the highway; turn left just before it. Continue for another 10 km (6 mi) along a dirt road to reach your destination. The total travel time is about 2 hours.
Other tourist attractions near the Tamgaly-Tas petroglyph site:
- City of Nomads
- Ili River
- Kapchagai Reservoir
- Kapchagai Reservoir Beach Resorts
- The Town of Konayev
- Altyn-Emel National Park
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