Back to category Published: 01 june 2022 Author: Zhanna Mukhatzhanova

Beket Ata Underground Mosque

Who was Beket Ata?

Beket Myrzagululy, popularly known as Beket Ata, lived in 1750-1813. He was a Sufi scholar, educator, philosopher, mathematician, astronomer, and healer. He was a fair judge in controversial disputes, led religious services, and was revered as a saint by Sufi Muslims.

At the age of 14, before going to study in Khiva, Beket Ata came to Shopan Ata’s burial to pay homage to the prominent religious leader. After graduating from a madrasah (a Muslim school), he took up medicine and began treating the sick.

In 1790, Beket Ata became a follower of Sufism and dedicated his life to serving God and people. In his sermons, he always called on believers to be free from prejudice and live in peace. During the seasonal migrations of his tribe, he built five mosques in the Mangystau Region. Becket Ata was well versed in construction so these buildings are still in good condition. His followers take care of these mosques and preserve their original appearance.

Beket Ata also taught children to read and write and even established a school in one of the mosques. According to archaeologists, later the mosque became a scientific center and an observatory, from where Beket Ata watched stars and predicted the weather.

At the age of 63, Beket Ata passed away and was buried in the underground mosque in the Oglandy Tract that now bears his name.

Underground mosque

For two centuries, pilgrims have been coming to Beket Ata’s resting place to pray and seek spiritual guidance. In Western Kazakhstan, people believe that the mere mention of Beket Ata’s name can ward off bad luck, and a prayer in the mosque can perform a miracle.

The mosque lies 1500 meters (5000 ft) below ground level and consists of 4 rooms. Beket Ata is buried in one of them. His sister Akkuash is in another; the third room contains Beket Ata’s staff, and the fourth room is an antechamber, which once served as a prayer room. Only women are allowed to enter the room where Akkuash is buried. When you are ready to leave, remember not to turn your back to the graves, so as not to offend the spirits of the people buried here. In addition, photography is prohibited in the mosque.

Previously, visitors could reach the entrance only by a mountain path. Nowadays, there is a new comfortable path with benches and gazebos along it. On the way to the mosque, you can see charred stones with traces of fat. Pilgrims burn tallow candles, thus making sacrifices to ancestors and saints.

Those wishing to visit the underground mosque should bring some food: cakes, tea, sugar, etc. All food is laid out on a common dastarkhan (traditional low round table), and each visitor is then invited to share a meal. By tradition, pilgrims stay there overnight.

Near the mosque, you can spot wild goats, roe deer, and foxes, which sometimes approach people at a fairly close distance. Some people even claim to have seen argali in this area.

According to legend, before his death, Beket Ata told his disciples not to bury his body, and for almost half a century it lay incorrupt in a niche, covered with a shroud. The disciples cut the dead man’s nails and hair once a week. In the 1850s, it was decided to wall up the body in a niche. They say the bodies of Beket Ata and his sister still rest incorrupt.

How to get there?

The mosque is located on the Ustyurt Plateau, 280 km (174 mi) to the east of the city of Aktau. The nearest settlement to the mosque is the village of Kyzylsai (on some maps you may see its old name – Uzen), which is 114 km (71 mi) away. The road from Aktau to the mosque will take about 5 hours by car.

If you’re driving from Aktau, take the A-33 highway and head to the town of Zhanaozen. From there, drive to Kyzylsai. Then follow the signs indicating that you are moving towards the Beket Ata Mosque. On your way, you’ll see the Shopan Ata Underground Mosque. There is an unspoken rule for pilgrims to stop over at Shopan Ata before proceeding to the Beket Ata Underground Mosque. Even if you’re not a pilgrim, be sure to visit this amazing landmark too. Beket Ata Mosque is about 70 km (43.5 mi) further along the road.

If you’re not up to driving, you can book a 4WD tour that will take you to both mosques and some other attractions of the Mangystau Region.