Back to category Published: 18 september 2026 Author: Joanna Mukhatzhanova

Lab-i Hauz Ensemble

 

Lab-i Hauz is an architectural complex in Bukhara formed by medieval buildings surrounding an artificial pool. It has remained a lively gathering place for centuries. Now it brings together locals and visitors for festivals, leisurely strolls, and everyday activities.

The complex consists of the pool and three surrounding structures: the Kukeldash Madrasa, the Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasa, and the Nadir Divan-Begi Khanaka. Let us take a closer look at each of them.

The Hauz (Pool)

The central element of the square is the hauz or howz (an artificial pool). In the past, such pools were a vital part of urban life. In Bukhara's hot climate, they served as sources of water and also offered residents relief from the scorching heat. People preferred to spend time by the water, so everyday activities took place around the pools.

Bukhara once had many such pools. However, in the 1930s, most were drained after the introduction of modern plumbing. Also, bacteria thrived in the stagnant water, contributing to the spread of disease. Lab-i Hauz survived because of the exceptional historical and architectural value of the surrounding complex.

Besides being a historic landmark, Lab-i Hauz is a popular place for strolling and relaxing. Cafés and restaurants line the pool, and the square stays lively throughout the day.

Although the pool is considered the central feature of the complex, the Kukeldash Madrasa was the first structure built there.

Kukeldash Madrasa

Built in 1568-1569, the Kukeldash Madrasa is the oldest and largest structure in the complex. It stands on the northern side of the square.

The madrasa was built with funds provided by Kulbaba, who held the position of kukeldash (a close associate of the ruler) under Abdullah Khan II. The word kukeldash literally means "milk brother." By tradition, the khan and his kukeldash had been breastfed by the same wet nurse.

The Kukeldash Madrasa in Bukhara is the largest madrasa in Central Asia. Its architecture is typical of large Bukharan madrasas. Behind a monumental portal lies an inner courtyard surrounded by chambers.

Nadir Divan-Begi Khanaka

Opposite the Kukeldash Madrasa, on the other side of the pool, stands the Nadir Divan-Begi Khanaka. It was built in 1620 by the order of Nadir Divan-Begi, Finance Minister under Imam Quli Khan.

A khanaka was a shelter for wandering monks, or dervishes. The building also housed a mosque. The building served as a cultural hub of Bukhara for many years in addition to its religious role.

Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasa

The third building in the complex is the Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasa, located on the eastern side of the pool. It was built in the 1620s.

Nadir Divan-Begi had originally planned to construct a caravanserai (an inn) here. However, during the opening ceremony, Imam Quli Khan unexpectedly declared the building a madrasa. As a result, the original structure had to be modified. A portal, loggias, corner towers, and student cells were later added. As a result, the building looks like a madrasa, although its layout retained some features of the original caravanserai.

In front of the Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasa stands one of the square's most recognizable modern features – a bronze statue of Nasreddin, a famous figure from Eastern folklore. Nasreddin is depicted riding a donkey. His image has long been part of Bukhara's cultural landscape and fits naturally into the atmosphere of Lab-i Hauz.

Other tourist attractions near the Lab-i Hauz Ensemble:

  • Traditional Carpet Museum
  • Ahmadjon Caravanserai
  • Khoja Gaukushan Complex
  • Nogay Caravanserai
  • Saraffon Mosque
  • Ghulomjon Caravanserai
  • Sayfiddin Caravanserai
  • Museum of Bukharian Jews
  • Chor Minor Madrasa
  • Poi Kalyan Ensemble
  • Ark Fortress
  • Museum of the History of Bukharan Calligraphy

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