Registan is the symbol of Samarkand and, arguably, the most recognizable landmark in Uzbekistan. This magnificent square appears on countless postcards, travel guides, and photographs from visitors around the world. Today, it is framed by three madrasas – Ulugbek, Sher-Dor, and Tilla-Kari. Together, they form one of the finest examples of Islamic architecture in Central Asia. However, the Registan we see today took shape over several centuries.

The Origins of Registan

Before the 15th century, Registan was a bustling urban area filled with markets, caravanserais, and public buildings. Its transformation began during the reign of Ulugbek, the grandson of Amir Timur and one of the most enlightened rulers of the Timurid dynasty. Seeking to turn Samarkand into a major center of science and learning, he ordered the construction of a grand madrasa here.

Completed in 1420, the Ulugbek Madrasa is the oldest surviving building of the Registan ensemble. It was soon recognized as one of the most prestigious centers of higher education in the Islamic world. At the time, only rulers had the privilege of founding advanced madrasas. Educational institutions founded by others could provide only secondary education.

The madrasa attracted leading scholars from across the East. Alongside religious sciences, students studied mathematics, astronomy, geography, languages, and medicine. Among its teachers were some of the greatest scholars of the East, including Ulugbek himself. Although the madrasa no longer functions as an educational institution, it remains one of the greatest architectural and cultural monuments of the Timurid era.

The building’s history was not without challenges. It suffered severe damage from earthquakes in 1817-1818 and again in 1897, when much of the structure was affected. A major restoration campaign began in the 1920s and continued for more than seven decades.

Sher-Dor – The Madrasa with Tigers

In 1612, Yalangtush Bakhodur, the ruler of Samarkand, commissioned the construction of a new madrasa directly opposite Ulugbek’s building. He wanted to create a structure that would rival the famous 15th-century madrasa in both scale and grandeur.

The new building was completed in 1636 and was originally named after its patron. However, the name did not become widely used, and the madrasa became known as Sher-Dor because of its entrance decoration. Above the portal are two tiger-like animals carrying suns on their backs and chasing white deer. The Persian word sher means “tiger,” giving the madrasa its name – “Adorned with Tigers.”

The decoration was unusual because traditional Islamic art generally avoided the depiction of living creatures. This bold design became one of the most memorable features of the Registan ensemble.

Like Ulugbek Madrasa, Sher-Dor was damaged by earthquakes in the 19th century. Its minarets tilted, sections of the facade collapsed, and some architectural elements lost their original form. Extensive restoration work was carried out during the Soviet period, and further conservation plans were announced in 2024.

Tilla-Kari – The Golden Madrasa

The youngest building of the Registan ensemble is the Tilla-Kari Madrasa. It was also commissioned by Yalangtush Bakhodur and completed in 1660, several years after his death.

The true masterpiece of Tilla-Kari is hidden inside. Its prayer hall and interiors are covered with blue and gold decoration, which gave the building its name. Tilla-Kari means “decorated with gold” or “covered in gold.” The arches are adorned with muqarnas – intricate honeycomb-like elements that create a three-dimensional effect.

Visiting Registan

Registan is best experienced twice: during the day and after sunset. In daylight, visitors can admire the extraordinary details of the mosaics, carved patterns, and colorful tilework. In the evening, the illuminated facades create a spectacular atmosphere. Musical and light shows, including 3D laser performances, are held here regularly in the evenings.

The best way to appreciate Registan is to enter each of the three madrasas and explore their inner courtyards. Today, they contain souvenir shops, traditional costume rentals for photo sessions, exhibitions with wax figures, and reconstructed student cells that show how scholars once lived and studied.

Other tourist attractions near Registan:

• Samarkand Park of Glory
• Amir Timur Park
• Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum
• Rukhabad Mosque
• Rukhabad Mausoleum
• Samarkand State Theatre of Musical Drama
• Kosh Hovuz Mosque
• Museum of Khoja Abdulaziz Abdurasulov
• Bibi-Khanum Mosque
• Siab Bazaar