Back to category Published: 02 june 2023 Author: Zhanna Mukhatzhanova

Boukreev Peak

 

Boukreev Peak, situated in the Ile Alatau Mountains, offers a truly majestic experience to climbers and hikers. Standing at 3010 meters (9875 ft), this peak provides a panoramic view of the surrounding region, including the city of Almaty, the Kimasar Gorge, and the peaks of Talgar and Furmanov.

Ascending Boukreev Peak is accessible to a wide range of individuals, including children who are well-prepared for the journey. The trail to the summit is well-established and passes through stunning alpine meadows adorned with Tien Shan spruce trees. Previously known as Pioneer Peak, it was renamed in 2007 to honor Anatoli Boukreev, a legendary Kazakhstani climber renowned for his daring ascents of the world's highest peaks.

Anatoli Boukreev gained recognition as a climbing guide during the fateful Mountain Madness expedition to Everest, also known as the 1996 Mount Everest Disaster. Amidst a blizzard, eight climbers lost their lives while attempting to descend from the summit. Boukreev rescued three stranded climbers above the 8,000-meter mark when everyone else refused to go look for them. During the same expedition, Boukreev reached the summit of Everest without the use of supplementary oxygen – an accomplishment achieved by only a select few climbers.

Sadly, Anatoli Boukreev's life was tragically cut short in 1997 during an expedition on Annapurna. To pay homage to this extraordinary climber, a bell and commemorative cast-iron plaques were installed on the peak that now bears his name. Every individual who reaches the summit is encouraged to ring the bell as a tribute to the fearless spirit of Boukreev.

When embarking on the trek to Boukreev Peak, it is essential to be well-prepared. Ensure you have an ample supply of food and water, even during the summer months when temperatures can unexpectedly drop, and warm clothing is required. It is crucial to respect the environment and leave no trace of your visit, so please refrain from littering and causing harm to the pristine surroundings.

How to get there?

Boukreev Peak presents two routes for climbers to reach its summit. The first route begins from the Butakov Gorge, where you commence your ascent towards the Lesnoy Pass. Once you conquer the pass, continue along the path on the right side, guiding you to the expansive plateau. From there, a small cape named Nadezhda marks the starting point of the climb to the peak of Boukreev. This route is widely favored among adventurers and is well-traveled.

Alternatively, you can opt for the Kimasar Gorge route, which takes you in the direction of Furmanov Peak. As you approach the base of Furmanov Peak, make a left turn along the established path, leading you to the Butakov Pass. Progressing onward, you ascend to the top of Kotyrbulak before finally reaching the summit of Boukreev.

Whether you are a first-time mountain explorer or a seasoned adventurer, consider booking a guided tour to enhance your experience.

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